Vietnam was supposed to be the first hot and exotic stop of my trip, however, I ended up staying only in the north of the country, where the temperature in January reaches 20ºC at best. Thus, by the time I left Vietnam, three weeks later, I hadn’t gotten rid of that cold feeling that I experienced in Russia and Mongolia, where the average temperature had been -35ºC. Flip-flops wouldn’t leave my backpack just yet.
Two weeks full of vietnamese festivities later, I got on a 24-hour bus trip to Vientiane. The moment I entered the new country, my coat left my side. I left it on a chair in my hostel, for anyone retracing my steps to take. There was no need anymore for sweat shirts nor jackets, the joyful time of shorts and tank-tops had come!
Vientiane
Even if Vientiane is the capital city of Laos, there was hardly much to do there. A few streets, packed with pubs, are animated, and the night market is vibrant; but you get a clear sense that most people are only here to set foot on Laos while they plan their route around the country.
I went with Peter, a German guy I met in the bus, to see the Stadium of Vientiane, and even if I was already aware of the fact that Laos was a poor country with no interest in football, I expected a larger stadium, but the only big thing was my surprise.
Vang Vieng
Once I felt I exhausted what Vientiane had to offer me, I left with Peter and Matt, a French guy we met in the city, on a bus to Vang Vieng, the next city on our four-stop, absolutely improvised, itinerary. Vang Vieng‘s main aim are the backpackers willing to party. Every hostel has some kind of huge offer on booze. Ours had free whiskey for the guests, every night! As simple as leaving an ice box filled with whiskey bottles ready to be drunk.
But the drinking and partying doesn’t stop in the hostels. Another of Vang Vieng‘s attractions is what they call tubing, a term that has become amazingly popular in the city. It’s some sort of pub crawl, but instead of walking (or stumbling) from pub to pub, you just float down the river on some sort of tube. You hop from bar to bar, drinking, of course, but also playing volley ball, beer pong and even Pétanque!
If I had to choose a place to chill in Vang Vieng, I’d go with the Smile Beach Bar, just by the river. There is a small platform on the water and they have some hammocks not too far from it. The fact that there is a balloon tour company next to it makes the place even finer, particularly as the sun sets.
The next step of our trip would be Sayabouly were the local elephant festival, held every February since 2007, was about to start. We acquired our tickets to Sayabouly on a travel agency who told us they were the only ones selling direct trips there. Unfortunately that would not be the case. When we arrived, very excited, to the meeting pick up point 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time, we were told by the guy who sold the tickets that unfortunately the bus was not going to be able to make it in time. He asked us if we wanted to go to Luang Prabang instead, and he lied by saying there was only half an hour between both cities, while Google Maps says the 100km would at least take two and a half hours.
After a long negotiation, we finally agreed on a trip to Luang Prabang on a great discount. There we were going to have to make sure to grab the first bus to the festival to avoid being late!
The van on the picture above took us to the bus station. Nice and cosy chairs as you can see, but a bit too windy for my taste! The real surprise would come once we got into the bus. I’m still unsure if this bus was some kind of luxurious model, but it definitely seemed to be aimed and fit for princesses. Pink, orange and green flashy bunk beds, big enough to fit two people.
After an unexpected good night’s sleep, we arrived to the wrong bus station in Luang Prabang, so we had to take a tuk-tuk to the main station, where the buses to Sayabouly departed from. Once there we booked our bus and got on the road for almost four hours. The bus was old and shabby this time around, no luxury anymore. A lot of locals were going to the festival too, so the two daily buses were not enough this time of the year!
With an unbearable heat-wave upon us, we searched for accommodation for easily an hour before we found a huge empty guesthouse. Now that our shelter was not a worry anymore, it was time to meet some elephants, our excitement cannot be put to words!
Sayabouly Elephant Festival
The festival lasted three days and it was absolutely amazing. Almost fifty elephants wandered about the city creating an impressive sight. Markets with food stands that offered delicious snacks at a dime -I’m talking about you, cheap, delightful, waffle-, kids attractions such as inflatable castles, duck fishing, shooting stands; everything made this festival an unforgettable experience.
During the festival, probably due to the heat, the elephants went punctual to bath in the river that crosses the city every two-three hours. The trainers used this opportunity to wash them and keep them hydrated, and I used it to jump on the back of one of them. What an incredible feeling it was!
A walk upstream, a lot of local people were too swimming and playing in the water. Following the old saying that you have to do as locals do, we managed to escape from the sun too!
Our second day in the elephant festival started with a big parade of locals, who danced and showed us their skills. Peter and I overslept and missed it all, but luckily the more responsible Matt was there to take pictures of it for us and also for you and see this moment immortalised!
Our last day in the festival all the elephants were taken inside of the local stadium. And around it, fruit stands offered delicious watermelons, bananas and several other fruits that you could use to feed the elephants. Can you imagine being surrounded by five or six pachyderms, even more sometimes, just staring at you, waiting for you to feed them the watermelon you are holding!? What an astonishing experience.
By midday we slowly started our way back to the bus station, still caught up in the feeling we had experience something unique and probably irrepetible. It wouldn’t leave us on our trip back to Luang Prabang, which would be the last step of our trip together in Laos.
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang‘s most popular sight are the Kuang Si Falls. Crystal clear waterfall that has created naturally a lot of small pools over the years. This is, without a doubt one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I felt madly in love with this location.
So much was our love that we decided to extend our stay to go back to the Kuang Si Falls by motorbike, to swim and enjoy the fresh water a full day. The way from the bottom of the falls upwards is quite easy to climb, and on it you will discover hidden spots, hidden pools, simply a hidden paradise.
The falls in Kuang Si were a perfect place to put an end to two perfect weeks! The trip would continue for me, and on the back of my mind a lingering feeling that it won’t be the last time I see you, Laos!!
Corentin Bernicat, or as we all know him, Coco, is a crazy and kind French traveller that volunteered in one of our hostels in Estonia for half a year in 2015, while also driving our day trips with Víctor. He’s been travelling the world for over a year, and you can see his itinerary in the following map.